1992 Daytona IROC R/T

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Car was purchased on 5/9/02 from a guy in the SDAC-Chicago car club by Alex and I traded him my GLHS for it on 5-22-02. It has 102,000 miles on it, the interior is near mint, and the body has some clear coat fade.

Removing the Air Conditioning from your TIII powered vehicle:

TIII motor, without A/C.

As all TIII motors came from the factory with A/C, there is no stock Mopar belt number for a car without A/C. A belt from a 2.5L Fiero can be substituted. Here are part numbers for a couple belts:

I found my belt at NAPA, part number 060660. It is a 6 groove, 66-3/4 inch belt. It's a Gates belt supplied to NAPA. This worked on my car with stock pulleys and only removing the A/C compressor.

Courtesy of Mike from the RTML, here are more options:

Do you have UD Pulleys on your car? With the Nick Boers UD Pulleys (AC and Crank) you need a 6 groove 65" belt. The code should be 5060650. With the stock pulleys try a 5060660 (6/66") or 5060672 (6/67.2"). I picked up Goodyear Gatorbacks from Roadside Auto. If there isn't one near you, try an Auto Barn or Aid Auto. They have them too but they carry generic Drive Rite belts. If you can believe it I just checked Pep Boys on that belt today and they didn't have it. Hope that helps. -Mike

Here is the diagram for belt routing, in case your's is missing. Notice that the non-A/C routing is shown, even though all TIII motors had the A/C!

I was able to replace the belt from the top of the motor. Use a 15mm box end/13mm box end wrench as it will be longer than the standard 15mm wrench and will give you more leverage. Untension the belt by using a tightening motion on the tensioners center bolt, the tensioner should swing downwards. While holding the tensioner down, slide the belt off the Idler pulley with your other hand.

To install a new belt, route the belt around all the pulleys except the Idler. Pull the tensioner down again, and then slide the belt to the correct side of the Idler pulley and release. Once you move the tensioner down a ways, you can grab the belt near the Idler and pull down on it, you will be able to hold the tensioner down just with the belt tension near the Idler, which will free your hand from the wrench and will allow the use of both hands to push the belt into place.

Here is the location of my fuel pressure gauge, it is mounted in one of the holes left after removing the A/C canister dealy that was there. I reused a rubber grommet and the bolt that was previously used to attach the canister to the fender. Gauge is in an Autometer pod with a 3' section of braided line attached directly to the fuel rail. The adjustable fuel pressure regulator is a Rick Diogo unit.

1992 Daytona Iroc R/T, 1 of 60 in black.